Framed Rotting Face

$20 - $30 (based on 2020 prices)

Makes one frame

 

To accompany props like the skinned lab monster, I built this framed rotting face to hang in the laboratory and add to the mad scientist’s bevy of maniacal experiments. To save on cost, I purchased the mask in an after-Halloween sale and bought an old frame from a secondhand store. Additionally, I used two large scraps of white fabric left over from previous builds.

• One 10” x 15” picture frame
• One 10 oz. can of interior/exterior, fast-drying spray paint in flat black*
• One 10 oz. can of interior/exterior, fast-drying spray paint in flat brown*
• One 10 oz. can of interior/exterior, fast-drying spray paint in metallic silver*
• One 2 oz. bottle of acrylic paint in flat black*
• One 2 oz. bottle of acrylic paint in flat brown*
• Two pieces of 8” x 11.5” cream-colored copy paper
• One 6” x 12” gray photo matte
• One 4 oz. bottle of all-purpose tacky glue*
• One to two yards of white fabric
• One latex mask
• Six 1.5-inch T-pins
• One piece of 8”x 11.5” copy paper with labels printed on it
• At least four tablespoons of black tea (e.g. Darjeeling, Earl Gary, English Breakfast, etc.)
• One pan large enough to soak the paper
• One 0.3 fluid ounce bottle of red food coloring*
• One 4 oz. bottle of clear, all-purpose tacky glue gel* 

1. Remove the backing and any glass from the frame and, on a newspaper-lined surface in a well-ventilated area, apply two even coats of silver spray paint. Although I used two coats, you may want more or less depending on your desired coverage.

2. To give the frame a filthy appearance, water down brown paint and brush it over the surface, ensuring the liquid settles into all the fissures (you can also use a spray bottle for the application). Allow the mixture to sit for a few minutes and then wipe it clean. You may want to experiment with the consistency prior to doing this: the more water you add, the fainter the wash; the less water you add, the darker the wash. After you have achieved your desired look, apply a slight flecking of black paint. You can do this by either quickly flicking a paintbrush or using an old toothbrush and strumming your finger across the bristles. Since this process flings paint everywhere, it is best to perform it outside.

3. Glue the cream-colored paper to the backing and then affix the matte atop of it. To enhance the aesthetic, you can use olive or vegetable oil to add stains to both items, applying a small amount of oil to your index finger and patting it onto their surfaces.

4. On a newspaper-lined surface in a well-ventilated area, give the backing a light dusting of brown spray paint to simulate dirt. To achieve this effect, hold the can over twelve inches away from the backing’s surface and make quick flicking motions. Once the paint has dried, run watered-down brown paint along the upper edge of the backing, allowing the liquid to naturally run downward. Akin to step two, you may need to play with the consistency before applying it to the prop.

5. Determine where you would like the face to rest on the backing. Then, bunch up the white fabric into a ball and glue it to that spot. This will provide padding to prevent the mask from caving in. Once this is done, dust the fabric with black spray paint. For the time-pressed haunter, you can just purchase black fabric and bypass this step.

6. Position the mask over the fabric and glue it in place. You want the cloth to be dark in case portions of it show through the mask’s eyes and mouth; hence, it is important not to skip the second part of step five (or merely buy a yard or two of black fabric).

7. Insert the T-pins into the edges of the mask, using them to mold the face and make it appear tacked to the backing. These can be substituted for other items, like screws or wooden skewers, to cater the prop to your haunt’s theme.

8. Boil enough water to completely submerge the copy paper and pour it into the pan. Add the tea. The longer you allow the tea to brew, the darker the stain will become. Likewise, greater amounts of tea will produce a richer stain. I found that a combination of English and Irish Breakfast brewed for over ten minutes produces a nice, deep brown. Submerge the paper into the tea mixture and soak it until it reaches the color you desire. I soaked mine for eight hours and scattered the loose-leaf tea over the top of the paper to add spots. Remove the paper from the water and allow it to dry.

9. After the paper has dried, cut out the label, leaving a small border around its edges. To roughen its appearance, use sandpaper to fray its sides and create holes. You can also crumple the paper to produce creases.

10. Once you have achieved your desired level of distress, glue the label to the backing just below the mask’s chin. Just like with step three, you can use oil to add additional stains.

11. In a plastic container (because the food coloring will stain, use something disposable or that you won’t mind dying), pour in your desired amount of clear glue gel and slowly add red food coloring to the solution until it achieves the sanguine hue you desire. To give the blood further density, add blue food coloring and mix well.

12. Apply the blood glue to the prop. You can use an old spoon or plastic utensil to strategically dribble the liquid along chosen areas (around the edges of the mask) or pour it haphazardly for a gory mess.

13. Reattach the backing to the frame, gluing it in place for extra stability. The prop can also be enhanced with additional details, like swarms of maggots or a specimen tag. 

*You will not use the entire bottle’s content for this project.