Skinned Lab Monster

$20 - $25 (based on 2020 prices)

Makes one frame 

 

To accompany the framed lab monster, I created this skinned lab monster to hang in the laboratory and add to the plethora of maniacal experiments conducted by the mad scientist. Using the same monster mask for both, I created one wrapped in bloody bandages and one covered in a skinned human face.

• One 8” x 10” picture frame
• One 10 oz. can of interior/exterior, fast-drying spray paint in flat black*
• One 10 oz. can of interior/exterior, fast-drying spray paint in flat brown*
• One 10 oz. can of interior/exterior, fast-drying spray paint in metallic silver*
• One yard of white fabric
• At least four tablespoons of dark roasted coffee grounds
• One pan large enough to soak the cloth
• One 4 oz. bottle of all-purpose tacky glue*
• One plastic monster mask
• One 2 oz. bottle of acrylic paint in flat cream*
• One 2 oz. bottle of acrylic paint in flat white*
• One latex mask
• One 0.3 fluid ounce bottle of red food coloring*
• One 4 oz. bottle of clear, all-purpose tacky glue gel*

1. Remove the backing and any glass from the frame and, on a newspaper-lined surface in a well-ventilated area, apply two even coats of silver spray paint. Although I used two coats, you may want more or less depending on your desired coverage.

2. To add a uniform level of age and distress, dust the frame with a light coat of black and brown spray paint. You can also apply a flecking of black paint and smears of brown to enhance the weathered appearance.

3. Boil enough water to completely submerge the cloth and pour it into the pan. Add the coffee. The longer you allow the coffee to brew, the darker the stain will become. Likewise, greater amounts of coffee will produce a richer stain. Submerge the fabric in the coffee mixture and soak it until it reaches the color you desire. I soaked mine for eight hours (long enough to give it a slight tint) and scattered the coffee grounds over the top to add spots. Remove the cloth from the water and allow it to dry.

4. Trim the fabric to 14” x 24”, stretch it across the frame’s backing, and glue it in place. I found it works best to glue one side to serve as an anchor and then work the fabric from there, ensuring the surface is as smooth as possible. Although I gave myself a one-inch border to work with, you may want to leave additional fabric to give you more leeway.

5. Remove the elastic band and mesh lining from the mask and cover the eyes and nose openings with cardstock, gluing the paper in place.

6. On a newspaper-lined surface in a well-ventilated area, give the mask an even coat of black spray paint. Although I only used one coat, you may want more depending on your desired coverage. Keep in mind, though, that this is the base coat and much of the black will be covered by the other paints.

7. Gently drybrush three coats of white paint over the mask, leaving the openings for the eyes and nose entirely black. Then, once the paint has dried, accent the raised areas with cream-colored paint, focusing on the areas around the major facial features.

8. Cut apart the latex mask, creating jagged edges to enhance the visual appeal. What portions you choose to separate is entirely up to you and your desired aesthetics for the prop.

9. Starting at the front of the monster mask, glue the latex mask to the prop. I found this step works best if you move in stages: apply a layer of glue to one section, hold the latex down until it sticks, and repeat the process. As you do so, ensure parts of the monster mask are still visible.

10. Position the monster mask on the backing and glue it in place. It might help to temporarily reattached the frame to guide its positioning and ensure it is properly centered.

11. In a plastic container (because the food coloring will stain, use something disposable or that you won’t mind dying), pour in your desired amount of clear glue gel and slowly add red food coloring to the solution until it achieves the sanguine hue you desire. To give the blood further density, add blue food coloring and mix well.

12. Apply the blood glue to the prop. You can use an old spoon or plastic utensil to strategically dribble the liquid along chosen areas (around the edges of the mask) or pour it haphazardly for a gory mess.

13. Once the blood glue has fully dried, reattach the backing to the frame. If you plan to display the prop outside in windy conditions, consider gluing the backing in place for additional support. You can also fabricate a loop with steel wire or utilize a store-bought version to hang the prop on a wall. 

*You will not use the entire bottle’s content for this project.