Post-Halloween Depression: A Mini-Essay

     In a 2018 blog post, novelist Drew Chial grieved the passing of the spooky season, commenting on the sadness many Halloween enthusiasts feel after the joys of decorating and trick-or-treating fade.[1] Dubbed Post-Halloween Depression, the experience is common for a large portion of the haunt community, with many slipping into melancholy once the décor is packed and society transitions into Christmas. Although it has not been widely studied by serious academics, it is extremely similar to the post-holiday depression which follows in January. As Nancy Girard, the former editor of the nursing journal AORN, remarks, depression tends to spike in the month of January as the luster of the holidays declines, people return to the monotony of their daily routines, and the full brunt of winter sets in, causing Seasonal Affective Disorder.[2] In fact, Jordana Mansbacher claims a primary reason depression ensues after the holidays is because this becomes a time for people to face the reality of the stress wrought by the season itself. As the psychotherapist states, Christmas can be emotionally and financially taxing; however, people often push through this stress to enjoy the festivities. Once the celebrations end, though, individuals are left coping with the stress, which can lead to depression.[3] The same, in turn, can be said about Halloween. For those who adore the holiday, it engenders the same level of emotional and financial stress as Christmas, with the reality of that strain not solidifying until November and, as Mansbacher contends, forcing participants to grapple with the factors like truth of their overspending or the disappointment of unfinished projects. 

 

Works Referenced

 

Chial, Drew. “Post Halloween Depression.” Drew Chial Author, 4 November 2018, https://drewchialauthor.com/2018/11/04/post-halloween-depression/.

 

Girard, Nancy. “January Blahs and Gray Days.” AORN Journal 79.1 (2004). 13. 

 

Mansbacher, Jordana. “Holiday Depression Is Real.” Pediatrics for Parents 28.5 (2012): 22.

____________________
[1] Chial.
[2] Girard, 13.
[3] Mansbacher, 22.

Frog Specimen

$15 - $20 (based on 2020 prices)
Makes one specimen

In addition to props like the framed rotting face and the framed torso, which contained human specimens, I also wanted a collection of animal specimens to fill the laboratory for 2020’s haunt. For this version, I utilized an anatomical frog that came as part of a science kit, which also including the diagram I used as the backdrop.

• One 9.5” x 11.5” shadow box
• One 10 oz. can of interior/exterior, fast-drying spray paint in flat black*
• One 10 oz. can of interior/exterior, fast-drying spray paint in metallic silver*
• One 2 oz. bottle of acrylic paint in flat brown*
• One piece of 8” x 11.5” copy paper with a frog anatomical chart printed on it
• At least one tablespoon of dark roasted coffee grounds
• One pan large enough to soak the paper
• One 4 oz. bottle of all-purpose tacky glue*
• One anatomical frog skeleton with detachable organs
• One 8 oz. can of oil-based interior wood stain in Jacobean*
• One 8 oz. can of oil-based interior wood stain in red chestnut*
• Ten decorative straight pins (approximately one inch in length)
• One 0.3 fluid ounce bottle of red food coloring*
• One 4 oz. bottle of clear, all-purpose tacky glue gel*

1. Remove the shadow box’s glass and, on a newspaper-lined surface in a well-ventilated area, build up layers of black and metallic silver spray paint to give it the look of steel. This process works best if you apply a base coat of black and then add the sliver, working in quick bursts to allow parts of the black to remain visible. You can also touch up portions with additional blasts of black if the silver becomes too heavy.  

2. To give the frame a filthy appearance, water down brown paint and brush it over the surface, creating drips down the sides and permitting the liquid settle into the cracks (you can also use a spray bottle for the application). You may want to experiment with the consistency prior to doing this: the more water you add, the fainter the wash; the less water you add, the darker the wash.

3. Add the coffee to a cup of boiling water. The longer you allow the coffee to brew, the darker the stain. Likewise, greater amounts of coffee will produce a richer stain. Since I wanted irregular spots rather than a unified discoloration, I placed the copy paper on a baking sheet, splashed coffee and grounds onto its surface, allowed the liquid to sit for a few minutes, and then moved it to a space to dry.

4. Glue the copy paper to the backing of the shadow box. For additional distress, you can crumple the paper before doing so to create tears and wrinkles and add further spots with light dabs of olive or vegetable oil.

5. On a newspaper-lined surface in a well-ventilated area, paint the skeleton and organs with the wood stain. I started with the red chestnut as a base and then dabbed Jacobean around the edges to darken them. This gave them a meaty appearance which made them look fresh.

6. Position the skeleton and organs on the backing and glue them in place. Following this, glue the straight pins into the organs to make them appear tacked to the backing.  

7. In a plastic container (because the food coloring will stain, use something disposable or that you won’t mind dying), pour in your desired amount of clear glue gel and slowly add red food coloring to the solution until it achieves the sanguine hue you desire. To give the blood further density, add blue food coloring and mix well. Then, smear the organs with the glue. Depending on your chosen aesthetic, this step is entirely optional. You can eliminate the blood for something tamer.

8. On a newspaper-lined surface in a well-ventilated area, paint the glass with the wood stain. Apply a thin coat and pat it with paper towels to produce a hazed appearance and brush the edges to create the illusion of grime buildup. Refrain from making the coverage too thick, though, because it can obscure the specimen inside.  

9. Reattach the glass to the frame. If you plan to display the prop outside in windy conditions, consider gluing it in place. You may also want to permanently seal the shadow box to prevent it from accidentally opening during the haunt; however, this will make its contents inaccessible in the future.  

10. The prop can be enhanced further with additional details, like a specimen tag or biohazard label. Likewise, the red food coloring can be substituted for green to create slime rather than blood.

*You will not use the entire bottle’s content for this project.

Fall Butterfly Wreath

$10 - $15 (based on 2017 prices)

Makes one wreath

The Dia de Los Muertos portion of 2017’s haunted house required dozens of wreaths for an intricate funeral scene. To prevent myself from using the same design for each prop, I did variations on the motif. For this version, I incorporated the butterflies common in the holiday. What I like about this prop is its versatility. The colors of everything from the leaves to the ribbon can be altered for a unique look, from a dull monochromatism like the one I made to a vibrant polychromatism like the butterfly wreath.

• One six-inch grapevine wreath
• Three four-foot garlands of fall leaves (roughly thirty-six leaves per garland)
• Hot glue gun and glue sticks
• Three decorative butterflies
• One foot of red ribbon

1. Separate the leaves from their garlands and, using hot glue, adhere them to a large portion of the wreath, leaving a spot open for the ribbon in step three. For visual interest, build up layers and vary the color patterns so leaves with the same hues and shapes are not concentrated in one area.

2. Add further flourishes to the wreath by gluing butterflies to the foliage. You can use an evenly spaced pattern to create balance or a random placement for extra irregularity. While I used insects with brown wings to complement the leaves, the hues can be modified for your specific scheme.

3. To create the bow, fold the ribbon in half to establish the first fold. Then, working outward from both sides, cluster the ribbon into tight loops to form an accordion, leaving the ends on both sides free to dangle down. For the time-pressed haunter, it might be easier to purchase a premade item for this project. Once the bow is formed and the glue holding it together has dried, attach it to the open portion of the wreath. Although I used hot glue, you can utilize superglue for a sturdier hold, especially if you plan to display this item in windy conditions for an extended period.

4. If the wreath did not come with hanging loops, you can fashion one with steel wire. Likewise, the wreath can be enhanced further with additional details, like acorns, pinecones, or small gourds.

*You will not use the entire bottle’s content for this project.

"One need not be a Chamber to be Haunted" (A Poem)

Originally written in 1862, Emily Dickinson’s poem “One need not be a Chamber to be Haunted” plays with a staple in Gothic literature: the haunted house.[1] Yet, the symbol is not used literally but figuratively, becoming a metaphor for consciousness being haunted by the specters of the mind.[2]

One need not be a chamber – to be haunted –
One need not be a House –
The Brain – has Corridors surpassing
Material Place –

Far safer, of a Midnight – meeting
External Ghost –
Than an Interior – confronting –
That cooler – Host –

Far safer, through an Abbey – gallop –
The Stones a’chase –
Than moonless – One’s A’self encounter –
In lonesome place –

Ourself – behind Ourself – Concealed –
Should startle – most –
Assassin – hid in Our Apartment –
Be Horror’s least –

The Prudent – carries a Revolver –
He bolts the Door,
O’erlooking a Superior Spectre
More near – [3]

Works Referenced

Dickinson, Emily. “One need not be a Chamber to be Haunted.” Emily Dickinson: Selected Poems and Letters. Peterborough: Broadway Press, 2023. 34-36.

Leiter, Sharon. Critical Companion to Emily Dickinson: A Literary Reference to Her Life and Work. New York: Facts on File, 2007.

Vendler, Helen. Dickinson: Selected Poems and Commentaries. Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press, 2010.
____________________
[1] Leiter, 159.
[2] Vendler, 184.
[3] Dickinson, 34-36.

Maggot Jar

$10 - $15 (based on 2020 prices)

Makes one jar

Little details can have the biggest impact in a haunt, reinforcing the theme and keeping guests intrigued. This is why I spend part of the building process creating small items, like this maggot jar to nestle next to the medical cabinets of severed limbs and organs in 2020’s laboratory.

• One 1.25 oz. glass jar with lid
• One 8 oz. can of oil-based interior wood stain in red chestnut*
• One bag of maggots (roughly fifty insects per bag)
• One 0.3 fluid ounce bottle of red food coloring*
• One 4 oz. bottle of clear, all-purpose tacky glue gel*
• One 10 oz. can of interior/exterior, fast-drying spray paint in metallic silver*
• One 10 oz. can of interior/exterior, fast-drying spray paint in flat black*
• One 2 oz. bottle of acrylic paint in flat brown*
• One piece of 8” x 11.5” copy paper with biohazard labels printed on it
• At least one tablespoon of dark roasted coffee grounds
• One pan large enough to soak the copy paper
• One 4 oz. bottle of all-purpose tacky glue*

1. On a newspaper-lined surface in a well-ventilated area, paint the jar with the wood stain. Apply a thin coat and pat it with paper towels to produce a hazed appearance. Likewise, brush the opening to create the illusion of grime buildup. You do not want the coverage to be too thick, though, because it will obscure the maggots.

2. In a plastic container, pour in your desired amount of clear glue gel and slowly add red food coloring to the solution until it achieves the sanguine hue you desire. To give the blood further density, add blue food coloring and mix well. Then, roll half of the maggots in half of the blood glue (save the other halves of both for step four) and fill the jar with them, using a pair of tweezers to arrange them. You want the insects as visible as possible, so try not to cover them too much with the blood. Likewise, you do not want them to settle to the bottom, so rest the jar on its side as the glue dries to prevent this.

3. As the blood glue dries, build up layers of black and metallic silver spray paint to give the jar’s lid the look of steel. It works best to apply a base coat of black followed by sliver, working in quick bursts to allow parts of the black to remain visible. Once the spray paint dries, create a wash of brown paint and use it to add a level of grime to the lid, allowing the liquid to settle in the crevices.

4. Glue the cap to the lip of the jar, making it appear the lid has popped off and allowed the maggots to escape. For a sturdier hold, use superglue. Then, roll the second half of the maggots in the remaining blood glue and, akin to step two, arrange them in the lid using a pair of tweezers. You want it to look like they are spilling into it, so concentrate a majority of the bugs in the juncture where the jar and lid meet.

5. Add the coffee to a cup of boiling water. The longer you allow the coffee to brew, the darker the stain. Likewise, greater amounts of coffee will produce a richer stain. Since I wanted irregular spots rather than a unified discoloration, I placed the copy paper on a baking sheet, splashed coffee and grounds onto its surface, allowed the liquid to sit for a few minutes, and then moved it to a space to dry.

6. Cut out one of the label and glue it to the top of the lid. Then, tear the two ends and glue them to the sides of the jar. This will give the illusion the seal has broken as the lid popped off. You can also coat the torn ends of the label with a light layer of glue to give them further rigidity.

7. Use the remaining blood glue to accent the lid and the rim of the jar. As with steps two and four, you do not want the application to be too thick and make the maggots difficult to see.

*You will not use the entire bottle’s content for this project.