Framed Torso

$40 - $50 (based on 2020 prices)

Makes one frame 

 

To accompany props like the skinned lab monster, I built this framed torso to hang in the laboratory and add to the mad scientist’s bevy of maniacal experiments. Since the latex chest plate proved rather expensive, I reduced the prop’s costs by purchasing the frame from a secondhand store, salvaging an old shipping box, and using two large scraps of white fabric leftover from previous builds. 

• One 16” x 20” picture frame
• One 10 oz. can of interior/exterior, fast-drying spray paint in flat black*
• One 10 oz. can of interior/exterior, fast-drying spray paint in flat brown*
• One 10 oz. can of interior/exterior, fast-drying spray paint in metallic silver*
• One 2 oz. bottle of acrylic paint in flat black*
• One 2 oz. bottle of acrylic paint in flat brown*
• Two to three yards of white fabric
• At least four tablespoons of dark roasted coffee grounds
• One pan large enough to soak the cloth
• One 4 oz. bottle of all-purpose tacky glue*
• One cardboard box (roughly 7” x 5” x 3”)
• One latex chest plate
• Three to four yards of twine
• One 0.3 fluid ounce bottle of red food coloring*
• One 4 oz. bottle of clear, all-purpose tacky glue gel*

1. Remove the backing and any glass from the frame and, on a newspaper-lined surface in a well-ventilated area, apply two even coats of silver spray paint. Although I used two coats, you may want more or less depending on your desired coverage.

2. To give the frame a filthy appearance, water down brown paint and brush it over the surface, ensuring the liquid settles into all the fissures (you can also use a spray bottle for the application). Allow the mixture to sit for a few minutes and then wipe it clean. You may want to experiment with the consistency prior to doing this: the more water you add, the fainter/lighter the wash; the less water you add, the deeper/darker the wash. Once you have achieved the look you desire, apply a slight flecking of black paint. You can do this by either quickly flicking a paintbrush or using an old toothbrush and strumming your finger across the bristles. Since this process flings paint everywhere, it’s best to perform it outside.

3. Boil enough water to completely submerge the cloth and pour it into the pan. Add the coffee. The longer you allow the coffee to brew, the darker the stain will become. Likewise, greater amounts of coffee will produce a richer stain. Submerge the fabric in the coffee mixture and soak it until it reaches the color you desire. I soaked mine for eight hours (long enough to give it a slight tint) and scattered the coffee grounds over the top to add spots. Remove the cloth from the water and allow it to dry.

4. Trim the fabric to 18” x 22”, stretch it across the frame’s backing, and glue it in place. I found it works best to glue one side to serve as an anchor and then work the fabric from there, ensuring the surface is as smooth as possible. Although I gave myself a one-inch border to work with, you may want to leave additional fabric to give you more leeway.

5. To add a uniform level of age and distress, dust the fabric with a light coat of black and brown spray paint. You can also apply a flecking of black paint and smears of brown to enhance the weathered appearance.

6. Determine where you want the chest to sit on the backing and position the box where the sternum will be. Then, glue it in that spot. This will serve as support for the chest plate to prevent it from drooping.

7. Remove the elastic band from the chest plate, position it over the box so its sternum rests along the center, and glue it in place. For visual appeal, you can create jagged edges along the plate to make it appear as though it was haphazardly cut from the body.

8. Thread the twine through the chest. You want to give the illusion that it is lashed to the backing with the strands. Do not overthink your process (a chaotic web of strings will only enhance the creepiness). I found a darning needle works best, since the latex is too thick for a regular needle.

9. Reattach the frame to the backing and, for added support, glue it down. Depending on the chest’s position, you may need to trim portions of it to allow the frame to sit securely on the backing.

10. In a plastic container (because the food coloring will stain, use something disposable or that you won’t mind dying), pour in your desired amount of clear glue gel and slowly add red food coloring to the solution until it achieves the sanguine hue you desire. To give the blood further density, add blue food coloring and mix well.

11. Apply the blood glue to the prop. You can use an old spoon or plastic utensil to strategically dribble the liquid along chosen areas (around the edges of chest) or pour it haphazardly for a gory mess.

12. If the frame did not come with a hanging hook, you can attach a store-bought version or fashion your own with steel wire. Also, the prop can be enhanced with additional details, like swarms of maggots or a specimen tag, to cater it to your haunt’s theme.

*You will not use the entire bottle’s content for this project.