Laboratory Monster in a Box

$40 - $50 (based on 2020 prices)

Makes one box

2020’s mad scientist haunt was a massive undertaking, with the laboratory needing several large pieces of equipment to truly sell the theme. To create a unified set, I decided to use similar elements in all of the pieces: copper and silver pipes and joints, lights fashioned out of Christmas ornaments, and steel-colored bases. For this version, I repurposed an old latex head and frosted storage container to make an eerie monster trapped in a box. For the budget-conscious haunter, you can substitute the latex head with a foam wig stand covered in a cheap mask.

• One 20” x 20” board of foam insulation
• One 10 oz. can of interior/exterior, fast-drying spray paint in flat black
• One 10 oz. can of interior/exterior, fast-drying spray paint in metallic copper
• One 10 oz. can of interior/exterior, fast-drying spray paint in metallic silver
• A random assortment of bolts, caps, and screws
• One latex monster head large enough to fit within the plastic box
• One 12” x 12” x 12” frosted plastic box
• One 8 oz. can of oil-based interior wood stain in red chestnut*
• One 8 oz. can of oil-based interior wood stain in Jacobean*
• One 1” x 3’ PVC pipe
• Four one-inch PVC elbow joints
• One one-inch PVC coupling joint
• One one-inch PVC tee joint
• One LED pumpkin light
• One clear plastic Christmas ornament (two inches in diameter)
• Three feet of 3/4” clear plastic tubing
• Two feet of red steel wire
• Two feet of black steel wire
• One 0.3 fluid ounce bottle of red food coloring*
• One 4 oz. bottle of clear, all-purpose tacky glue gel*

1. On a newspaper-lined surface in a well-ventilated area, build up layers of black and metallic silver spray paint to give the foam board the look of steel. I found it works best to apply a base coat of black to the entire prop and then add the sliver, working in quick bursts to allow parts of the black to remain visible. You can also touch up portions with additional blasts of black if the silver becomes too heavy.

2. Detail the board with the assortment of bolts, caps, and screws, applying a small dab of glue to the bottoms of their heads and pushing them into the foam. Your arrangement is entirely based on your chosen aesthetic, so you can apply as many or as little as you like.

3. Center the box on the board and lightly trace its outline. Then, position the head in the center of the outline and glue it in place. If the frosted effect is fairly thick, you may need to bring the head forward so it becomes visible. It is best to play with the positioning beforehand, since repositioning the head after it had been glued to the board can prove rather difficult.

4. On a newspaper-lined surface in a well-ventilated area, paint the box with the Jacobean wood stain. Begin by applying a thin coat and patting it with paper towels to produce a hazed appearance. Then, brush the edges with a swift downward motion to create the illusion of grime buildup. Finally, dab the surfaces with the red chestnut wood stain to create spots of dried blood.

5. Reposition the box over the outline and glue it in place. For a sturdier hold, you may want to consider using superglue rather than hot glue.

6. Measure, mark, and cut the PVC pipe into two seven-inch sections, two six-inch sections, and one five-inch section. These measurements may need to be increased or decreased depending on the size of the box. You want them large enough to form a frame that snuggly wraps around its sides.

7. On a newspaper-lined surface in a well-ventilated area, give the pipe sections two even coats of silver spray paint and the joints two coats of copper. You can always vary the colors to cater the prop to your haunt’s distinct color scheme.

8. Assemble the joints and pipes as shown in the picture to create the frame and then, using hot glue, attach it to the foam board. You may need to use a collection of sturdy objects to help support the framework while the glue fully dries. To improve the prop’s aesthetic, paint the glue joining the frame to the base silver to make it look welded to the board.

9. Paint the sides of the LED pumpkin light copper to match the joints and glue it to the top of the box just above the monster’s head, ensuring the light faces downward to illuminate the prop inside.

10. Cut the top off of the Christmas ornament and, on a newspaper-lined surface in a well-ventilated area, give it a coat of metallic copper spray paint. Once this has dried, accent its tip with metallic silver paint, cut two small holes on either side, and insert bolts into the openings.

11. Cut a three-inch section of the tubing and mangle its ends with a pair of scissors. Following this, give the tubing an even coat of metallic silver spray paint and a light dusting of black at the mangled end to make it appear charred. Then, insert the tubing into the ornament’s opening and glue it in place, painting the glue silver to make it look welded. Once all of this is done, nestle the ornament over the light. This will help hide it but also make it accessible to turn it on and change the batteries.

12. Cut the tubing into a twenty-five-inch section and, on a newspaper-lined surface in a well-ventilated area, give it an even coat of silver spray paint. Once it dries, position the tube beside the box, cut a hole into the board, and glue it in place. You want the tubing long enough to reach over the box and attach to the cover for the LED light, so you may need to adjust the measurements if your box is larger or smaller.

13. Using the same technique in step eleven, mangle the end of the twenty-five-inch tubing and dust it with black paint to make it appear singed.

14. Cut the black and red wire into five four-inch sections of each color, cluster them together, and bind their ends. Following this, run the wires between both ends of the tubing and glue them inside to give the illusion of exposed electrical wires.

15. In a plastic container (because the food coloring will stain, use something disposable or that you won’t mind dying), pour in your desired amount of clear glue gel and slowly add red food coloring to the solution until it achieves the sanguine hue you desire. To give the blood further density, add blue food coloring and mix well.

16. Use the blood glue to detail the prop, dribbling the liquid around the joints, pouring it down the sides of the pipes, and creating puddles at the base of the box.

17. The prop can be enhanced further with extra details to cater it toward your haunt’s needs, like biohazard labels adhered to the sides of the box. Also, the red food coloring can be substituted for green to make slime rather than blood.

*You will not use the entire bottle’s content for this project.