Framed Insect Specimens

$10 - $15 (based on 2018 prices)

Makes three framed specimens

For the witch den, which was part of my office’s annual decorating competition, I covered the walls in an assortment of framed specimens. To give the illusion of an eclectic collection, I created small groups of props with varying designs. For this version, I used aged copper frames and coffee-stained labels. You, though, can cater the props to your specific needs by altering the size (a subtle statement with a small, cheap frame or a dramatic impression with something more massive and ornate) or specimens (an eerie mixture of rat skulls or a bizarre cluster of bat wings).

• Three 8” x 10” frames
• One 10 oz. can of interior/exterior, fast-drying spray paint in metallic copper
• One 2 oz. bottle of acrylic paint in grasshopper*
• One 2 oz. bottle of acrylic paint in hunter green*
• One 2 oz. bottle of acrylic paint in olive*
• Four pieces of 8” x 11.5” copy paper (one with scientific labels printed on it and three blank)
• At least four tablespoons of black tea (e.g. Darjeeling, Earl Gary, English Breakfast, etc.)
• At least four tablespoons of dark roasted coffee grounds
• One pan large enough to soak the copy paper
• One 4 oz. bottle of all-purpose tacky glue*
• Three or four plastic insects in various sizes
• One 8 oz. can of oil-based interior wood stain in Jacobean*
  

1. Remove the backings and any glass from the frames and, on a newspaper-lined surface in a well-ventilated area, apply an even coat of metallic copper spray paint. Although I only used one coat, you may want more depending on your desired coverage. Keep in mind, though, that this is the base coat and much of the copper will be covered by the green paints. 

2. Mix grasshopper and hunter green paint together to achieve and aged patina and pat it onto the frames. You could use a brush with splayed bristles, a stippling sponge, or crumpled paper towels for the application. As you do so, focus on areas where oxidization would naturally occur. 

3. To add further age and additional depth, dab olive paint onto the frames. As with step two, focus on places where continued exposure to the elements would weather the copper. Be modest with your application during this process. You do not want to overpower the other colors with this darker tone. If you choose to do so, the patina can be enhanced further with a flecking of black paint. You can do this by either quickly flicking a paintbrush or using an old toothbrush and strumming your finger across the bristles. Since this process flings paint everywhere, it’s best to perform it outside. 

4. Boil enough water to completely submerge the three sheets of blank copy paper and pour it into the pan. Add the tea. The longer you allow the tea to brew, the darker the stain will become. Likewise, greater amounts of tea will produce a richer stain. I found that a combination of English and Irish Breakfast brewed for over ten minutes produces a nice, deep brown. Submerge the paper into the tea mixture and soak it until it reaches the color you desire. I soaked mine for eight hours and scattered the loose-leaf tea over the top of the paper to add spots. Remove the paper from the water and allow it to dry. Although it can be time consuming, this process works best if you stain each sheet of paper individually. 

5. Glue the stained paper to the cardboard backings. To make it appear even more decrepit, crinkle the paper and create holes. You can use olive or vegetable oil to add further stains. I discovered that applying a small amount of oil to your index finger and patting it on the paper works well. 

6. Boil enough water to completely submerge the copy paper with scientific labels printing on it and pour it into the pan. Add the coffee. The longer you allow the coffee to brew, the darker the stain will become. Likewise, greater amounts of coffee will produce a richer stain. Submerge the paper in the coffee mixture and soak it until it reaches the color you desire. I soaked mine for eight hours and scattered the coffee grounds over the top of the paper to add spots. Remove the paper from the water and allow it to dry. I elected to stain this sheet with coffee rather than tea to give the labels a darker hue which contrasted with the tea-stained backings. You, of course, are free to just stain all four sheets with either tea or coffee to save time. 

7. After the paper dries, cut out the labels, leaving a small boarder around their edges, and roughen their surfaces with sandpaper. Once you have achieved your desired level of distress, glue the labels to the backings. 

8. On a newspaper-lined surface in a well-ventilated area, stain the insects. I began by giving each one a light, even coat with a foam brush. After that, I applied heavy amounts of stain and patted away the excess with paper towels. You want the color to build up in the cracks and fissures. Although you may use whatever color of stain you desire, I chose Jacobean because it gives the insects an old, rotted appearance. Once you have achieved your intended look, allow the insects to dry. I let mine sit outside in the sun for three days. 

9. Center the specimens on the backings with their corresponding labels and glue them in place. For a sturdier hold, consider using superglue.

10. Attach the frames to the backings. For added support, glue the backings in place, particularly if you plan to display these in windy conditions. If the frames did not come with hanging hooks, you can add store-bought items to the back or fashion your own with steel wire. 

*You will not use the entire bottle’s content for this project.