Gumball Machine

$50 - $60 (based on 2019 prices)

Makes one machine

 

This was the most complex and expensive prop built for 2019’s twisted carnival theme. Although it was not a difficult build, it required a lot of steps, which all culminated into a fun and impressive piece. Unfortunately, the prop never made it into the haunt, since concerns over unstable flooring and the glass container prompted the venue to remove it rather than risk it breaking and hurting guests.

• One human-size plastic skull
• One 1” x 4’ PVC pipe
• One fifteen-inch circular board
• Three one-inch PVC pipe couplings
• One twelve-inch wooden sign
• One six-inch glass globe (for enhanced safety, use a plastic version)
• One 10 oz. can of interior/exterior, fast-drying spray paint in flat black*
• One 10 oz. can of interior/exterior, fast-drying spray paint in flat brown*
• One 10 oz. can of interior/exterior, fast-drying spray paint in metallic silver*
• One to two rolls of colorful wrapping paper (roughly seventeen square feet)
• One 2 oz. bottle of acrylic paint in flat black*
• One 2 oz. bottle of acrylic paint in flat brown*
• One 2 oz. bottle of acrylic paint in flat gray*
• One 2 oz. bottle of acrylic paint in flat white*
• One 4 oz. bottle of all-purpose tacky glue
• One package of two-inch letterboard letters
• One yard of brown twine
• Seven severed eyes (learn how to make them here)
• One 0.3 fluid ounce bottle of red food coloring*
• One 4 oz. bottle of clear, all-purpose tacky glue gel*

1. Measure and mark the center of the circular board and, using a 1 3/8” spade bit, drill a hole into the item. I accidentally went all the way through; however, I would recommend only drilling half way, since this will make step two much easier.

2. Glue one of the couplings into the hole. This will serve as a juncture to attach the pole to the stand. I used wood glue for added support, but you can use an alternative adhesive like hot glue or superglue.

3. Use a sharp knife to cut a hole in the top of the skull large enough to accommodate the glass bowl. If it helps, measure and mark your cut first. Also, purchase a skull made of thin plastic. This will make it easier to cut.

4. Cut a one-inch hole in the base of the skull, insert the second coupling, and glue it in place. This will provide a connection point for the skull and the post.

5. On a newspaper-lined surface in a well-ventilated area, give the inside of the skull a coat or two of black spray paint. Although I used one coat, you can apply more to give the interior a darker hue.

6. Reattach the skull’s mandible and hot glue it agape to create a screaming face. To aid the process, use a sturdy object – a glass jar or tin can – to support the skull as the glue dries. You may need to apply multiple coats to ensure a firm hold.

7. Cut or tear apart the wrapping paper. You can either isolate distinct images or use random sections (as I did). Cover the entire surface of the skull with the cuttings. This process works best if you move in stages: apply a layer of glue to one section, press the paper down until it sticks, and repeat the process.

8. On a newspaper-lined surface in a well-ventilated area, dust the skull with a light coat of black and brown spray paint to add age and distress. To give the appearance of dirt, hold the can over twelve inches away from the skull’s surface and make quick flicking motions. You can also apply a flecking of black paint and smears of brown paint to enhance the weathered appearance.

9. Repeat steps seven and eight with the circular base. You can use the same wrapping paper for uniformity or a different pattern for a more varied appearance. Alternatively, you can use layers of black and silver spray paint for a metallic look.

10. Measure, mark, and cut the PVC pipe into two two-foot sections and, on a newspaper-lined surface in a well-ventilated area, give the sections and the third coupling two coats of metallic silver spray paint. Then, use a light dusting of black and brown spray paint to add age and distress.

11. Repeat steps seven and eight with the wooden sign. Akin to step nine, you can use the same pattern, an alternate design, or black and silver paint for a steel patina.

12. On a newspaper-lined surface in a well-ventilated area, give the letterboard letters an even coat of black spray paint. Although I only used one coat, you may want more depending on your desired coverage. Keep in mind, though, this is the base coat and much of the paint will be covered up by other colors. Once the paint has dried, give the letters an aged patina by gently brushing brown, gray, and white paint over their surfaces. Try not to overthink your application. A random pattern is ideal.

13. Arrange the letters on the sign and glue them in place. It might work best to pre-position everything to determine their desired placement before permanently affixing them.

14. Glue the sign to the upper portion of one of the PVC pipe sections and wrap twine around the sign to give the illusion it is lashed to the pole.

15. Glue the eyeballs in the globe. This process works best if you apply a small dab of glue to their surface, press it against the glass, and hold it for a few minutes until it sticks. Depending on the width of the globe’s mouth, you may need to use a long pair of tweezers or kitchen tongs to position the items if you cannot fit your hand through the opening.

16. In a plastic container (because the food coloring will stain, use something disposable or that you won’t mind dying), pour in your desired amount of clear glue gel and slowly add red food coloring to the solution until it achieves the sanguine hue you desire. To give the blood further density, add blue food coloring and mix well.

17. On a newspaper-lined surface, pour the blood glue into the globe and rotate it to spread the blood across its surface. It is best to move slowly with this, since it can easily overtake the glass and make it impossible to see the eyeballs.

18. Nestle the globe into the skull’s cavity and glue it in place. If it it does not fit snugly, you can use crumpled pieces of black paper to pad the opening.

19. Assemble the entire prop and, on a newspaper-lined surface, apply more blood glue. You can use an old spoon or plastic utensil to dribble it along chosen areas (e.g. around the openings of the eyes and nose and along the areas where the globe protrudes from the skull) or pour it haphazardly for a gory mess.

20. The prop can be enhanced in a variety of ways to cater the prop to your haunt’s specific needs. For instance, you can include severed ears and fingers inside the globe for a gorier theme or remove the blood and fill the globe with Halloween-themed toys for something more whimsical.

*You will not use the entire bottle’s content for this project.