Decoupage Mask

$15 - $20 (based on 2014 prices) 

Makes one mask 

I made this mask a few years ago for Fasching (see the costume that accompanied it). The idea was to create a ghostly figure that embodied elements of an abandoned house: moth-eaten textiles, tattered curtains, and peeling wallpaper. The latter component worked its way into the mask, where I used layers of tea-stained paper to replicate the look of old, withered wall treatments and crumbling plaster. Although a tedious process, the final effect was well worth all of the effort and time.

• One Venetian carnival mask
• One 10 oz. can of interior/exterior, fast-drying spray paint in flat tan
• At least six pieces of 8” x 11.5” copy paper
• At least four tablespoons of black tea (e.g. Darjeeling, Earl Gary, English Breakfast, etc.)
• One pan large enough to soak the copy paper
• One 4 oz. bottle of all-purpose tacky glue*
• One 2 oz. bottle of acrylic paint in flat brown*

1. In a well-ventilated area, hold the spray paint can roughly twelve inches away from the mask and spray it with several even coats of tan paint. I used two coats; however, you may want more or less depending on your desired coverage. If you accidentally miss a spot or two, don’t worry too much. This is the base coat and much of the paint will be covered up by the paper. 

2. Boil enough water to completely submerge the copy paper and pour it into the pan. Add the tea. The longer you allow the tea to brew, the darker the stain will become. Likewise, greater amounts of tea will produce a richer stain. I found that a combination of English and Irish Breakfast brewed for over ten minutes produces a nice, deep brown. Submerge the paper into the tea mixture and soak it until it reaches the color you desire. I soaked mine for eight hours and scattered the loose-leaf tea over the top of the paper to add spots. Remove the paper from the water and allow it to dry. Although it can be time consuming, this process works best if you stain each sheet of paper individually. Additionally, this method gives you the chance to vary the degree of stain for each piece of paper, which adds further depth to the texture of the final mask.

3. Tear apart the paper and, using the tacky glue, adhere it to the mask. To enhance the visual impact, alternate the stains – adding plain white paper into the mixture – and build up layers with folds, holes, and shreds. This process is painfully lengthy and a major labor of love; however, the more time you spend on it and the more detail you apply, the greater the final product will appear.

4. Using a brush with splayed bristles, pat the brown acrylic paint onto the mask. Try to concentrate on spots where dirt would naturally accumulate: along the base of folds, around the edges of tears, and deep inside cracks. It might take a few coats and some modifications to the paint’s shade to achieve your preferred appearance.

*You will not use the entire bottle’s content for this project.

Candle Pillars

$10 - $15 (based on 2014 prices) 

Makes three pillars roughly 24” in height  

I’ve seen this project done with PVC pipes. In an effort to save both money and time, though, I created mine using paper towels and toilet paper rolls. It achieves the same effect without the hassle of cutting piping. Plus, the low cost offsets any disappointment if the props are damaged or stolen. As always, you can modify the color to fit your haunt’s needs.

• Twenty paper towel/toilet paper rolls
• One 4 oz. bottle of all-purpose tacky glue*
• One hot glue gun and glue sticks
• One 8 oz. can of interior/exterior, fast-drying latex paint in flat white
• One package of battery-operated LED tea lights (sixteen total)
  

1. Arrange the rolls in varying heights and, using the tacky glue, paste them together. To give the candles more of a melted appearance, cut their tops to form dips. You can also fashion a base by placing the bottom of the pillar onto a sheet of cardboard, tracing its outline, cutting out the pattern slightly larger than its actual size, and gluing it to the prop. Since the tubes are hollow, you can pour sand into the base to give the pillar added weight in windy displays.

2. Using the hot glue gun, pipe drips of wax onto the tubes. You may want to play with the design on scraps of cardboard first, toying with the pattern before applying the final version. I found that pumping the glue along the tops of the rolls and allowing it to naturally run down their sides creates the best results.

3. In a well-ventilated area, apply the white paint to the pillars. I used three coats; however, you may want more or less depending on your desired coverage. After allowing the paint to dry, you can keep the tea lights in place by forming holders with toothpicks. Simply drive them into the tops of the pillars to form an X and reinforce them with tacky glue.

*You will not use the entire bottle’s content for this project.

The Utbrud: A Mini-Essay

     Robert Adams, folklorist at Indiana University, emphasizes that folklore functions to reinforce and validate the specific customs and rituals of a cultural institution. Through creation myths, these legends can serve as educational material for a society’s origins and history. Through epics, they can accentuate the importance of cohesion in building strong communal ties. And, through didactics, they can stand as a warning for the consequences of violating accepted practices. Not surprising, tales of the boogeyman fall within the later category. From the Yara-ma-yha-who of Australia’s Aborigine tribes and the Kappa of Japan to the Baba Yaga of Slavic lore and the Abu Rigl Maslukha of Egypt, stories abound about restless beings who mentally and physically punish individuals - particularly rebellious children - for straying from customary manners and morals. One such figure is the Norwegian utbrud.
     In previous centuries, unwanted children or those born during times of famine were carried out into the darkened forests surrounding the small agricultural communities of Norway and abandoned. Left to fend for themselves in the frigid woods, these hapless younglings were eventually overcome by the elements and perished. As Brian Righi explains, many Norwegians believed these utbrud returned as vengeful spirits who enacted their wrath on lonesome travellers or, as recounted in many bedtime stories, ill-behaved youths. Thus, by serving to castigate unruly kids, the utbrud function like many other boogeymen; however, they hold one distinct feature which separates them from their slew of ghastly brethren. While the Yara-ma-yha-who, Abu Rigl Maslukha, and their kin are demonic creatures or the souls of tortured adults, the utbrud themselves are children, making these menacing forces peers to the individuals they are meant to threaten.

Works Referenced

Adams, Robert. Introduction to Folklore. Columbus, OH: Collegiate Publishers Inc., 1973. 

Righi, Brian. Ghosts, Apparitions, and Poltergeists: An Exploration of the Supernatural through History. Woodbury, MN: Llewellyn Publications, 2008.

Rusted Fence Stakes

$10 - $15 (based on 2015 prices)

Makes ten stakes with accompanying chains

Themed fence stakes are fairly easy to find during the Halloween season and they range in both price and quality. Although splurging on nicer versions may be more convenient, there is greater artistic gratification in buying cheaper pieces and altering them. Plus, the entire process allows you to adjust their appearance to fit your haunt’s theme.

• Ten Halloween-themed decorative fence stakes with chains 
• One 10 oz. can of interior/exterior, fast-drying spray paint in metallic brown 
• One 2 oz. bottle of acrylic paint in flat brown* 
• One 2 oz. bottle of acrylic paint in flat red*

1. In a well-ventilated area, lay the stakes out and, holding the spray paint can roughly twelve inches away, spray them with several even coats of metallic paint. I used two coats; however, you may want more or less depending on your desired coverage. If you accidentally miss a spot or two, don’t worry too much. You can always use the rust-colored paint to hide any imperfections.

2. Mix together the brown and red acrylic paint to form a rust color. You may want more of a reddish hue so that it contrasts with the darker metallic brown. Once the spray paint has dried, use a brush with splayed bristles to pat the rust-colored paint onto the stakes. Try to concentrate on spots where rust would naturally form: areas repeatedly exposed to the elements and moisture. It might take a few coats and some modifications to the paint’s shade to achieve your preferred appearance.

3. On a newspaper-lined surface, lay the chains out and repeat the paint pattern, focusing on regions where rust would typically occur.

4. You can add further detail by gluing leaves or moss to the stakes. You can also wrap vines through the chains and around the finials.

*You will not use the entire bottle’s content for this project.

Withered Boards

$6 - $10 (based on 2015 prices) 

Makes twenty boards: ten 24” x 10”, eight 20” x 12”, and two 20” x 10”  

Old, weather-worn boards are a perfect means to achieve that abandoned-house look. They can be used to cover doors and windows or erect barriers to direct traffic. Using cardboard to create these props has several advantages, namely the low cost. In fact, since they’re cheap and easy to make, it’s not too disheartening if they’re damaged or stolen. Plus, the colors and degrees of distress can always be adjusted to fit your haunt.

• One 24” x 20” x 30” cardboard box
• One 10 oz. can of interior/exterior, fast-drying spray paint in flat tan
• One 2 oz. bottle of acrylic paint in flat black
• One 2 oz. bottle of acrylic paint in flat brown
• One roll of cheap paper towels

1. Cut the cardboard into the shape and size of the boards you desire. You can distress their appearance by splintering their edges and forming holes.

2. In a well-ventilated area, lay the boards out and, holding the spray paint can roughly twelve inches away, spray them with an even coat of paint. Although I only used one coat, you may want more depending on your desired coverage. Keep in mind, though, that this is the base coat and much of the tan paint will be covered up by the darker colors.

3. Once the spray paint has dried, apply several globs of the black and brown acrylic paint to the board and, using a paper towel, smudge the paint across its surface. Don’t be discouraged if it takes you several attempts to achieve a realistic look. You may have to waste a few boards playing with your technique. For me, three methods produced the best results: smearing the paint in the same direction creates a uniform grain; adding additional paint to certain areas and gently smudging it makes nice discolorations; and applying small amounts of paint allows more of the tan color to show, giving the wood a lighter hue.

4. After you have mastered your technique, the process is rather enjoyable and you can add additional elements to give the boards further detail. Use a stipple sponge to fashion knots or a fine-tipped brush to construct worm holes.

5. Because the boards are made from lightweight cardboard, they are easy to hang with clear packaging tape. If you plan to display them outside, you may want to use duct tape to provide a stronger hold against the wind and other elements.

Crystal Ball (Version One)

$16 - $20 (based on 2012 prices)

This was my first attempt at creating a crystal ball. I wanted to give the illusion of rolling fog beneath the ball’s glimmering surface. Cotton spider webs, in turn, proved the ideal means to achieve this without introducing the complicated machinery of a fog machine. Although I used green webbing with white lights, the possibilities are endless: black webbing with orange lights, orange webbing with purple lights, or white webbing with color-changing lights. Due to this factor, the prop can be customized to fit the specific color scheme of your haunt.

• One 4.23 oz. bag of stretchable spider web in green
• One 14” strand of white LED mini Christmas lights
• One 7½” clear glass globe with 4” fitter

1. Pull apart the webbing, working at the strands of cotton. The trick to this project rests in the cotton’s consistency. The fibers will naturally distribute the light from the LEDs. You want the webbing to be thin enough to allow this distribution, yet thick enough to mask the lights and not ruin the illusion.

2. Line the inside of the globe with the webbing. It helps to buy a fixture with a larger fitter to allow your hand entrance into the bowl and enough room to easily maneuver. Also, to help the cotton stick to the glass, try brushing a light coat of all-purpose tacky glue onto the surface prior to the application. You want the final product to look like clouds of fog.

3. Bundle the strand of lights together and place it inside the globe. Because traditional Christmas lights generate an excessive amount of heat, it is important to use LEDs for this project. These newer bulbs produce far less heat and greatly reduce the risk of fire, especially considering the globe is lined with cotton.

4. Feed the electrical cord out of the globe. You may want to secure the cord along the fitter’s rim with clear adhesive tape. You can also use a battery-operated timer and hide the pack inside the ball. 
 

Swamp Hag

$60 - $75 (based on 2014 prices) 

Every yard haunter has experienced it: you see a spectacular prop online and carefully count your pennies; you eagerly place the order and impatiently wait for it to arrive; you open the package and are crushed to discover the prop holds little resemblance to the wondrous creation you saw on the website. In the past, I returned the item and lamented over what could have been. Over the years, though, I began tinkering with these disappointing orders and quickly realized that, with a little creativity and diligent work, a dopey prop can become an impressive addition to your haunt. Now, I spend the days after Halloween searching stores and websites for those discarded and overlooked items which hold tremendous potential. One of them was this elfish witch discounted nearly ninety percent. After stripping her bare, I began a two-week overhaul which produced a creepy swamp hag fit to join my coven of witches. 

• One static figure prop with metal, plastic, or wire armature 
• One hooded shroud large enough to fit the prop 
• One hot glue gun and glue sticks 
• One 10 oz. can of interior/exterior, fast-drying spray paint in flat green 
• One 2 oz. bottle of acrylic paint in flat black 
• One 2 oz. bottle of acrylic paint in flat brown 
• One 2 oz. bottle of acrylic paint in flat gray* 
• One 2 oz. bottle of acrylic paint in flat red* 
• One 2 oz. bottle of acrylic paint in flat white* 
• One 0.44 oz. bottle of clear nail polish* 
• Two to three rolls of black and/or gray creepy cloth (30”x 72” per roll) 
• One square of foam padding (18”x 18”x 1”) 
• One black and white wig at desired length

1. Strip the prop of its clothing and any accessories, removing the hands and head.

2. Using the hot glue gun, pipe vines onto the hands and face. You may want to play with the design on scraps of cardboard first, tinkering with the thickness and pattern before applying the final version to the body parts.

3. Once the glue has cooled, move the hands and head to a well-ventilated area. Holding the spray paint can roughly twelve inches away from the props, spray several even coats of green paint. I used three coats; however, you may want more or less depending on your desired coverage.

4. After allowing the paint to dry, use a fine-tipped brush to apply the brown acrylic paint to the vines. This process is painfully time consuming and a major labor of love. It took me almost a week to complete the face and both hands.

5. Add additional detail by painting the eyes white, the inside of the mouth red, the nails black, and the teeth gray. To make the eyes and mouth look glossy, apply a few coats of clear nail polished to the dried paint. If you want your hag to have a clean appearance, stop at this point and reassemble the prop, adding the shroud, creepy cloth, and some leafy vines.

6. To give your hag a grimy appearance, water down the black acrylic paint and brush it over the hands and head, ensuring the liquid settles into all the cracks and fissures (you can also use a spray bottle for the application). Allow the mixture to sit for a few minutes and then wipe it clean. You may want to experiment with the consistency prior to doing this: the more water you add, the fainter/lighter the wash; the less water you add, the deeper/darker the wash.

7. To further the hag’s dingy look, shred the ends of the hooded shroud and, with scissors, cut holes, rips, and tears into the fabric. The level of distress you choose depends on how filthy you want the hag to appear. To make the garment even more soiled, smear it with black and brown acrylic paint.

8. Using the foam padding, give the prop added bulk around the arms, back, and shoulders. You can fashion a hump by building up layers of padding on the back and gluing them together with all-purpose tacky glue. As you cut, mold, and trim the padding, you may need to dress and undress the prop several times to ensure that the clothing and padding achieve a natural look when the final product is assembled. 

9. Reassemble the prop, dressing the hag in the shroud and creepy cloth and affixing the wig to her head. You can add additional accessories – a necklace of bones, leafs glued to her shroud and hair, or patches of moss – to give the hag even more detail and a further level of grunge.

 *You will not use the entire bottle’s content for this project.