$25 - $30 (based on 2018 prices)
Makes one mask
In the summer of 2018, I was asked to make a small collection of props for a theatrical troupe performing a traveling variety show in my town. One of the skits required a cannibal mask for a humors cooking-show segment. I ended up making two versions: one with feathers, which was used for the performances, and one with horns, which was not.
- One large latex balloon
- One roll of painters masking tape
- One 4 oz. bottle of wood glue
- One 4 oz. bottle of all-purpose tacky glue
- One standard-size newspaper
- One 10 oz. can of interior/exterior, fast-drying spray paint in fire orange
- One 2 oz. bottle of acrylic paint in au natural*
- One 2 oz. bottle of acrylic paint in flat black*
- One 2 oz. bottle of acrylic paint in flat brown*
- One 2 oz. bottle of acrylic paint in hot cocoa*
- Seven eleven-inch feather floral sprays
- Two dozen gnarled sticks
- One 12” x 12” sheet of black craft foam
- One yard of brown twine
2. Make the papier mache paste by mixing ½ cup of glue and ½ cup of water in a bowl. Try to use a sealable container. This gives you the ability to store the mixture for a day or two between applications. Also, to give the paste added support, use a combination of all-purpose glue and wood glue (stay away from school glue because it is washable and will dissolve in the water).
3. Cut the newspaper into strips, soak them in the paste, and apply them to the balloon. To make the process more manageable, keep the strips at a reasonable size (mine were roughly six inches long and two inches wide). Similarly, only apply a few layers at a time and allow each layer to completely dry before adding more (I did two layers during each application and let them dry for twenty-four hours). Keep in mind that this prop will be carved and worn. So, you want it as sturdy as possible. A minimum of six to seven layers will suffice, but more is always better.
4. Once you have reached your desired thickness, cut the balloon and remove it from the papier mache shell. Be gentle during this process and gradually work the balloon out.
5. Use a sharp knife to cut the shell in half lengthwise. If it helps, measure and mark your cut first. This will provide you with two separate masks. I used one for this project and the other for the horned tribal mask which was featured in an earlier post.
6. On a newspaper-lined surface in a well-ventilated area, give the entire prop two even coats of fire orange spray paint. Although I used two coats, you are free to apply as many coats as you feel necessary.
7. Water down brown acrylic paint and brush it over the mask’s surface, ensuring the liquid settles into all the wrinkles (you can also use a spray bottle for the application). Allow the mixture to sit for a minute and then wipe it clean. You may want to experiment with the consistency prior to doing this: the more water you add, the fainter/lighter the wash; the less water you add, the deeper/darker the wash.
8. Add further detail by stippling au natural and hot cocoa paint around the edges and randomly along the surface. You can use a brush with splayed bristles, a stippling sponge, or crumpled paper towels for this application. Also, apply a slight flecking of black and brown paint. You can do this by either quickly flicking a paintbrush or using an old toothbrush and strumming your finger across the bristles. Since this process flings paint everywhere, it’s best to perform it outside.
9. Use a wire cutter to trim the stems in the feather sprays to four inches. This will give you excess to work with during the following steps.
10. Layer the sprays by staggering their placement along the crown of the mask. To give depth, alternate them, with some further forward than others. Likewise, to add height, create a tapered appearance by arranging the sprays in varying tiers.
11. Glue the sprays in place, trim the excess wire, and cap the ends with ample amounts of glue. For extra padding, adhere a band of foam of soft cloth to protect the wearer.
12. Use a marker to trace the face onto the mask and, with a sharp knife, cut it out. I found that a serrated blade works best. Don’t worry too much if your cuts leave part of the markings visible. The paint in the following step will cover this up.
13. Detail the edges of the eyes and mouth by stippling au natural and hot cocoa paint around the edges and randomly along the surface. You can use a brush with splayed bristles, a stippling sponge, or crumpled paper towels for this application.
14. Fashion a mouthful of crooked teeth by gluing gnarled sticks along the edges. For a creepier appearance, select items with twisted forms and sharp points.
15. Cut a sheet of craft foam into pieces large enough to cover the openings of the eyes and mouth and glue them in place. This will help to not only darken the cavities but protect the wearer from the sticks. For visibility, cut holes into the foam. You can also use a mesh fabric or leave the eye openings uncovered.
16. Use black paint to create a dripping effect below the eyes. You want the final version to look like blackened evil is pouring from the mask’s eyes. Try to simulate running mascara, exaggerating the streams and bringing them down toward the jaw line.
17. Cut twine into two fifteen-inch sections and make drawstrings for the mask. To enhance the tribal theme, consider weaving beads or feathers onto their ends.
18. You could embellish the mask further with strands of colorful wooden beads, strings of rotten teeth, collections of sea shells, or bunches of severed ears and fingers.
*You will not use the entire bottle’s content for this project.
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